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Each July in Pamplona, northeast Spain, thousands of men and women risk their necks at the San Fermín encierro, or running of the bulls, when they charge fearsomely down half a mile of cobbled street pursued by dozens of the snorting, steaming beasts. Immortalised by macho novelist Ernest Hemingway, the world-famous, three-minute run – culminating with all the bulls safely corralled inside the town’s bullring – is the focus of a week-long carnival, with parades, brass bands, fountain-jumping (um, climbing up a fountain and leaping into the arms of your friends…) and fireworks. There’s good reason for this event’s inclusion on all those ‘things to do before you die’ lists – it is the adrenalin-charged thrill of a lifetime.

Highlights

In The Know

Head Count

As many as two million visitors descend on the city (normal population: 200,000) during the event.

Meeting Point

The fountain in the Navarrería is probably the most central place to meet, but expect crowds.

Best View

The only way to improve on watching the action at ground level is to book a vantage point on a balcony (see our VIP section, overleaf)

Packing Tips

If you are participating, follow tradition and wear white, with a red neckerchief and a red sash around your waist. Take some decent running shoes, too.

Escape

Some 50km from San Fermín, the Leyre Monastery on the Pamplona–Jaca road is one of Spain’s most beautiful examples of ecclesiastical architecture.

Dos and don'ts

• Think long and hard before running with the bulls: there is real danger involved, and it is something that should on no account be embarked on under the influence.
• Should you decide to run, read up on techniques, and choose a particular stretch; very few people do the whole thing. If you do fall, cover your head and lie still until the crowd passes you.
• If you go to a bullfight, ask for seats on the shady or sombra side of the ring. The cheapest tickets put you on the sunny side, where it gets very hot and uncomfortable.
• Don’t expect to catch much shut-eye if you stay in town – this really is 24-hour partying.

Need To Know

Children

This kind of chaos is far from ideal for family fun.

Parking

Car parks here fill up fast. If you're planning on driving, speak to your hotel for advice when you book.

Disability Access

The cobbled streets and narrow doorways can be difficult to navigate.

Food & Drink

Europa on Calle Espoz y Mina serves a fresh, modern menu (+34 948 221 800; www.hreuropa.com), as does stately, wood-panelled Don Pablo on Navas de Tolosa (+34 948 225 299; www.restaurantedonpablo.com). Hartza on Juan de Labrit is run by three sisters and serves excellent, more traditional dishes (+34 948 224 568). Bars along the streets of San Gregorio, San Nicholas and Comedia do tapas (pintxos in Basque) to go with your beer or sangria; our favourites include Aralar, the Bergalés, Baserri and Cordovilla, but no-name places are great, too.

Sleep

It is crucial to book ahead for accommodation. There are no Smith hotels in the immediate area, but we like the old-fashioned and rather plush La Perla, on the central Plaza del Castillo (a place also favoured by Hemingway, as you’ll see by the portraits of him hanging on the walls). Ring +34 948 227 706 to book. Europa is a quality central hotel, as well as a restaurant (see details under Food and Drink), and Hotel Yoldi is another more modern option in the old quarter (+34 948 224 800; www.hotelyoldi.com). Light sleepers should consider staying somewhere out of town; country houses are available through Iruñaldea (+34 902 196 462; www.irunaldea. com). For more options, see www.sanfermin.com.

VIP

Pamplona Adventure Tours specialise in San Fermín packages, arranging accommodation and even spaces on balconies to watch the events (01670 760784; www.bullrunners.co.uk).

More Details

www.pamplona.es; www.sanfermin.com