Sziget Festival

The musical child of post-Communist metal and Nineties dance-music culture, Sziget is a week-long excuse for fans of all tribes to party it up in Hungary’s inimitable capital city. On a beautiful green island in the middle of the Danube, a makeshift town springs up, with grocers, post offices, markets and sports pavilions, as well as 60-odd music venues, bars, restaurants and campsites. Despite big names such as Franz Ferdinand and Radiohead, Sziget is still something of a word-of-mouth secret. And it’s ever-evolving: what began on a budget with an all-Hungarian line-up has developed into Europe’s most daring cross-genre festival, with recent bills setting The Killers alongside Killing Joke, and Coldcut next to Meshell Ndegéocello. World music, electronica and hard rock each have their own domain, and there’s always a Roma tent dedicated to gypsy music from across Europe and Asia.

Highlights

There aren’t many gigs where you can see flamenco in the morning, headbang in the afternoon and dance to trance into the wee hours. Sziget’s all about the mix.

In The Know

Head Count

About 400,000 people turn up over the week.

Meeting Point

Try to meet friends on the K bridge as you enter the island; the site's big enough to be tricky from the off.

Best View

Blag your way back-stage for a band's-eye view of the festival.

Packing Tips

Bring high-factor sunscreen to avoid festival burn, and a folding chair – so simple, yet so civilised.

Escape

After a week camping, taking the waters in one of Budapest’s famous spa hotels could rate as the best idea ever (www.spasbudapest.com); check out the faded art nouveau glory of Danubius Hotel Gellért (www.danubiushotels.com).

Dos and don'ts

• Don’t bunk in a pal’s tent if you didn’t buy a camping ticket. If you’re caught, you’ll be asked to leave the festival.
• Skip a dip in the Danube (not blue, but dirty and dangerous).
• Visit the ‘Language First-Aid tent’ to learn basic but vital Hungarian expressions, such as koszonom (thank you).
• Try Unicum, Hungary’s national spirit. It tastes like cough syrup, but you won’t mind that once you’ve had a couple.
• Call ahead for a taxi instead of hailing one on the street; drivers routinely hike the price up for foreigners. City Taxi is highly recommended (+36 1 211 1111).

Need To Know

Children

Sziget is determinedly child-friendly, with a programme of suitable activities, and an invaluable free crèche service, between 10h and 18h, which sees tomorrow’s goths and techno freaks entertained with handicrafts, circus tricks and puppet shows. Kids under 10 get in free.

Parking

There’s limited parking available for those who want to bring caravans, but be sure to book in early. Otherwise, it is a car-free festival, with zero in the way of organised parking lots. If you do drive, follow the signs to the secure car park nearby on Szentendre Road.

Disability Access

There’s a wheelchair ramp, a special podium in front of the main stage, and showers and toilets for people with special needs. You can also get Braille programmes of concert listings. Unfortunately, there is no drive-in access, so getting into the event can be difficult.

Food & Drink

Sziget village plays host to a many-splendoured spread of temporary restaurants, bars and food stands, but you should definitely get out into Budapest proper for at least one night: try the Café Kor restaurant which adds twist and sparkle to traditional Hungarian fare (+36 1 311 0053). Baraka Restaurant & Lounge, at the Andrássy Hotel, is super-chic and dramatic; make reservations in advance to get a table (+36 1 483 1355). Mokka Café and Restaurant serves soulful tapas that cover a geographical spread from Marseilles to Marrakech (+36 1 411 0961). And if you fancy dining alfresco, there’s a pretty courtyard at Náncsi Néni (+36 1 398 7127; www. nancsineni.hu). It’s a little out of the way up in the hills of Buda, the old castle side of the city, but well worth the trip.

Sleep

If you don’t want to camp, try the old-world splendour of the New YorkPalace (+800 2672 6565; www.newyorkpalace.hu), or the aforementioned Danubius Hotel Gellért (+36 1 889 5500; www.danubiushotels.com) – affordable and charming, in its rickety way.

VIP

Not applicable at this event.