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Semana Santa
Seville, Spain 16–23 March
Europe’s most emotionally charged festival in our favourite Andalucían city, Semana Santa – Holy Week – transforms Seville into a celebratory Catholic carnival, all candlelight and costume. Local cofradias or brotherhoods, each on a float, wind through the streets, followed by dozens, even hundreds of nazarenos – hooded believers carrying candles and heavy crosses. Normal life is put on hold, as visitors and locals pack the cobbled streets to watch as the brotherhoods make their way to the cathedral. The festival marks the beginning of spring and the end of Lent, bringing an atmosphere of real joy to the streets, squares, restaurants, cafés and bars of this sensual, sultry southern city.
Highlights
La Madrugá is an all-night procession, the biggest event of the week for many. It starts around midnight on Holy Thursday and continues well into the next day.
In The Know
Head Count
About a million people line the streets to watch the parades during the week.
Meeting Point
The steps of the riverside Torre del Oro watchtower are a fine place to meet, not far from the action.
Best View
Some forward-thinking local folk buy their places in wooden chairs along the Calle Sierpes, but these are usually all organised long beforehand – and anyway, half the fun is the walking around. For a grand view over Seville, climb the 97-metre Giralda, the cathedral’s 12th-century bell tower (previously a minaret) and a fine example of Moorish architecture.
What If
I’m not religious? Semana Santa is an amazing few days of spectacle, tradition – and demonstration of faith. But you definitely don’t have to be a devout Catholic (or a devout anything) to attend and enjoy it. The atmosphere is respectful, celebratory and very inclusive.
Packing Tips
Many locals put on their Sunday best for the occasion, but it's not obligatory. Bear in mind you may be on your feet for hours, so wear comfortable shoes and take something warm if you're heading out for La Madrugá.
Escape
If you’re feeling a little fiesta-weary, two hours in the car will transport you far from the noise and crush of Semana Santa, into the wilderness of the Aracena mountains in Huelva province.
Dos and don'ts
• Don’t miss el silencio, a particularly moving procession, where lights are dimmed and the crowd goes eerily quiet (and make sure your phone’s turned off!).
• Be careful what you drop on the floor (not that you should be littering anyway) – some nazarenos and penitentes still walk their route barefoot and, whatever their sins, they don’t deserve to tread on broken glass or cigarette embers…
• Have a drink and a bite of tortilla at El Rincóncillo on Calle Gerona (+34 954 223 183); this tapas bar has been dishing up victuals since way back in 1760.
• Get to know Seville before the crowds arrive if you can – it’ll help you when you’re negotiating the huge processions. Alternatively, kill two touristic birds with one stone by climbing the Giralda, to get an idea of what’s where.
Need To Know
Children
It’s very much a family occasion, with a warm atmosphere and lots of living history for kids to enjoy, learn and get excited about.
Parking
No chance – with a milliion people on the streets, the whole city is pretty much a no parking zone.
Disability Access
The streets themselves are fine, if sometimes cobbled, but the swarms of people might make moving around in a wheelchair slow-going.
Food & Drink
La Alquería at the Hacienda Benazuza (+34 955 703 344; www.elbullihotel.com), a 15-minute drive out of town, is a high-class gastro delight. Los Seises on Calle Segovia (+34 954 229 495) is set in what was once an archbishop’s mansion. Good tapas bars abound in the city centre: Modesto at 5 Cano y Cueto has an incredible menu of mouthwatering morsels (+34 954 416 811); Bar Giralda, on Mateos Gago, is right by the cathedral (+34 954 227 435).
Sleep
This is one to plan ahead with a vengeance; every corner of the city gets booked up months in advance. Chic, comfortable family-run Hacienda de San Rafael is 40 minutes due south of Seville. For more details or to make a booking, visit www.mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701. Five-star Hacienda Benazuza, in Sanlúcar la Mayor (see above), is a converted farmhouse with excellent food. In town, Las Casas del Rey de Baeza at 2 Plaza Jesús de Redención (+34 954 561 496) is private and charming, with a rooftop pool.
VIP
Not applicable at this event.
More Details
www.turismosevilla.org
