Prague Spring Music Festival

From the storm of the San Francisco Symphony thundering through a Tchaikovsky overture, to Haydn sweetly interpreted by the UK’s very own Academy of St Martin in the Fields, the Prague Spring Music Festival promises sublime moments. The festival attracts the most brilliant stars in classical music, and for over 60 years the audiences here, thrilled by Bernstein or a Czech virtuoso like pianist Jitka Cechová, have finished their evenings spellbound by yet another great performer – the city itself. There is no grander finale than to stroll past the enchanting baroque edifice of St Nicholas church before dining in one of this splendid capital’s fine restaurants. For unashamed lovers of romance, urban charm and musical excellence, this is three weeks of paradise.

Highlights

Performances by the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra or the Prague Radio Symphony Orchestra are guaranteed to be heavenly. Be sure to look out for the young musicians’ showcases, too – they’re more of a gamble but you can uncover some astounding new talent.

Prague Spring Music Festival Highlight Image

In The Know

Head Count

Around 45,000 attend the three-week festival.

Meeting Point

For a grand start to the evening, greet your companions at the main entrance to Municipal House in the old town; it’s an elegant art nouveau palace to the arts that houses the city’s largest concert hall.

Best View

This changes with every concert: at the Rudolfinum, anywhere in the middle of rows 10 to 18 in the parterre, and first and second rows in the middle of the balcony. After the music, enjoy panoramic views of the city’s architectural opulence from the La Perle de Prague restaurant on the top floor of the Dancing House building on Rašínovo Nábreží (+420 2 2198 4160).

Packing Tips

Take a camera for daytime sightseeing, and opera glasses for the evening entertainments.

Escape

Tabór is 90 minutes south of Prague by train (CZK70). The town is revered by Czechs for feats of derring-do in the nation’s history, hence their desire to keep its mediaeval streets and Renaissance buildings in pristine condition. A few nights at the Hotel Nautilus (see www.mrandmrssmith.com or ring 020 7590 0700) will restore calm after Prague’s musical fervour. And a gentle swim in the town’s Lake Jordan should freshen you up before your return to the capital.

Dos and don'ts

• Join the Friends of Prague Spring Festival (about CZK800 or £20): it’s a cheap and excellent way of getting discounted tickets, free programmes and information before everyone else. Contact Jirí Konopásek on +420 2 57314038, or at konopasek@festival.cz.
• See at least one concert in an unusual venue: St Ann’s, a 14th–century gothic former convent in the old town, has undergone extensive renovation after its years as a print works, and now makes the perfect romantic setting for a dramatic performance. Visit www.festival.cz for details of the venues.
• Don’t get into any of the taxis waiting at ranks in obvious tourist destinations. Instead, hail a moving cab. Make sure the driver switches on the meter, or agree a price first.
• Don’t think you can arrive late for a performance and slip in unnoticed. The Czechs take their music seriously, and will generally make latecomers wait for a decent break before allowing entry.
• Always face people when you ease past them to find your seat in a row: it is considered highly impolite to show them your back.

Need To Know

Children

Older children are welcome.

Parking

There is a public garage at the Rudolfinum but, in general, driving’s not the best plan here; it’s a small city with not much parking, plus there’s a fun and romantic public tram service. Never park in the blue zone: you’ll be clamped.

Disability Access

Fine in most venues. For example, the Rudolfinum has disabled access to the main parts, and designated seating areas for those in wheelchairs.

Food & Drink

Our top choices include swish restaurant V Zátiší on Betlémské námestí (+420 2 2222 1155), and Klub Architektr (+420 2 2440 1214), a stylish cellar serving creative food just up the road. Try Tretter’s on V Kolovne (+420 2 2481 1165) in the old town, for great cocktails. Cukrkávalimonáda is an urbane cafe on Lázenská, although it closes at 18h (+420 2 5753 0628); the Globe Café and Bookstore at 6 Pštrossova has live music every Friday and Saturday night (+420 2 2493 4203). For baroque splendour to complement the Mozart, visit Smith favourite Pálffy Palác on Valdštejnská, but do book in advance (+420 2 5753 0522).

Sleep

Peruse Mr & Mrs Smith’s recommendations – Design & Style Hotel Neruda, Hotel Josef, Hotel 987 and Hotel Yasmin – online at www.mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701.

VIP

There are no official hospitality packages, though you will often see the first row of seats saved for friends and associates of the orchestras and performers.