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Thumping sound systems and swaying steel bands mounted on scores of trucks trundle through a throng so dense that it’s hard to believe you’ve made your way into the middle of it. Behind each float trails a mas band of up to 200 gaudily costumed dancers gyrating in unison to bass beats heavy enough to shake the fizz out of your pop. The Notting Hill Carnival began in 1964 when Caribbean immigrants decided that a taste of Trinidad’s premier arts event would help unite the area’s cosmos of communities. Today, in terms of sheer numbers, only Rio is thought to surpass the capital’s giant street party – but who’s counting? For 48 hours, this tiny district of west London is devoted to insanely large costumes, insanely loud music and the sheer thrill of dancing like mad in the street.

Highlights

In The Know

Head Count

It’s notoriously difficult to know how many people come – it’s a free carnival in the centre of a huge city – but

Meeting Point

Most pubs will be heaving, but the Grand Union on Woodfield Road (020 7286 1886) has a great canalside patio if you can get to it; the Westbourne (020 7221 1332; www.thewestbourne.com) is another local favourite.

Best View

You're not at carnival unless you get in among the crowds, but if you want a view, get onto a private balcony, preferably one belonging to a millionaire Notting Hillbilly.

Packing Tips

Lots of water, sunscreen (or a kagoule) and sturdy trainers for all that strolling and dancing.

Escape

To get away from the madness, nip out to the outdoor deck of the Waterway restaurant in Little Venice (020 7266 3557; www.thewaterway.co.uk) or walk along the canal and visit the shops of Maida Vale.

Dos and don'ts

• Visit the Notting Hill J’ouvert. Early dawn, Monday morning, and W11 rings to the sounds of steel-pan music as the masqueraders shimmy along the streets. Starting at 06h and ending at 09h, it is well worth the early alarm.
• See Panorama’s ‘Champion of Steel’ competition. Since 1964, when Russ Henderson’s steel-pan band first performed here, the music of Trinidad has become the backbone of Carnival.
• Make like Lily Allen, Mark Ronson and the Chemical Brothers and join the ‘Garden Party’ at the Mason’s Arms: Carnival’s favourite pub-based shindig and one of the best reasons to book the Tuesday off work, Barry Ashworth’s (Dub Pistols) bash always sells out fast, so get your tickets early (£10–£15 for an all-day ticket) through Ticketline (0870 100 0000; www.ticketline.co.uk), or the Mason’s Arms (020 8960 2278).
• Get hold of a map to help you navigate the busy streets.
• Watch out for pickpockets; don’t carry a bag if you can help it.

Need To Know

Children

Sunday is Children’s Day: every performer is under 21, and there’s a more family-orientated atmosphere, but lots of youngsters visit and perform on the Monday, too.

Parking

All private vehicles are banned from the Carnival exclusion zone, but if you drive into London you can park in one of the city’s many carparks and then use public transport.

Disability Access

The most crowded areas are hard-going in a wheelchair, but avoid these and you'll be fine.

Food & Drink

The streets are full of great snacks and impromptu stalls, so you’ll have no shortage of ackee and saltfish, roti and dumplings, to wash down with a few chilled Caribs. To find an actual restaurant, you’ll need to stray from the carnival route, and most places will be mobbed. Near to Notting Hill Gate try sleek Kensington Place on Kensington Church Street (020 7727 3184; www.egami.co.uk) or sexy Beach Blanket Babylon on Ledbury Road (0871 332 8579).

Sleep

Baglioni Hotel and the Gore in Kensington are just off the calypso-beaten path; visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or ring 0845 034 0701 for more details or to book rooms.

VIP

Radio listeners can win passes to a 300-capacity free-bar party through competitions run on Kiss 100 FM, during the fortnight before Carnival.

More Details

www.londoncarnival.co.uk; www.bbc.co.uk/london/carnival