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Lewes Bonfire
Lewes, East Sussex, England 5–5 November
Roaring flames, exploding effigies, costumed processions and the subwoofer whomp of giant rockets – Lewes’ bonfire night celebrations throw a Molotov cocktail in the face of damp sparklers and not-so-banging back-garden bangers. Descriptions of this spectacular pyrotechnics party make it sound more like The Wicker Man than a historic event in a charming Sussex market town: the evening’s revels see a normally peaceful population taking temporary leave of its senses. With a bonfire tradition dating back to 1605, Lewes has had plenty of time to perfect the mayhem: an army of official pyromaniac societies marches the narrow streets carrying burning torches and frightening the life out of onlookers with ‘rook-scarers’. Then each society heads to its own huge climactic bonfire, where firework-stuffed figurines of unpopular figures (from politicians and pop stars to publican who pull short pints) are consigned to the flames amid chants and cheers.
Highlights
The Bonfire Societies signal the start of the processions by racing barrels of burning tar down the High Street at 18h30, after which the whole town seems to parade past in a variety of outlandish outfits. Guy Fawkes gets his comeuppance from around 22h, when bonfires, effigies and several tons of fireworks go up in smoke at five separate fire sites.
In The Know
Head Count
Around 60,000 pairs of eardrums attend the event each year; most will still be ringing the next morning.
Meeting Point
The crowds tend to overwhelm the mobile phone network, so plan ahead: choose a particular spot near the railway station, such as outside the Royal Oak pub on Station Street – it’s central but slightly off the procession route.
Best View
If you arrive early, you can get a great view of the processions from the war memorial on the High Street; it's also at the bottom of a steep hill, so watch out for any runaway burning barrels.
Packing Tips
Despite the efforts of the local firestarters, you’ll still need warm clothes. It can be cold, damp, smoky and windy, and there will be sparks flying, so wear something you don’t mind getting singed or smoked.
Escape
Follow Offham Road up towards the Borough Bonfire Society’s site, to the west of the town centre. From up there, on the slopes of the South Downs, you can take in a panorama of all the displays from a safe distance.
Dos and don'ts
• Make sure you have enough cash on you – getting to an ATM is an epic and often fruitless challenge.
• Don’t bring children or pets, and don’t set off your own fireworks (unless you want to get arrested).
• Wear appropriate shoes; the fire sites can be muddy.
• Don’t try to get involved in the procession. A magistrate who interfered in 1847 got thrown in the River Ouse; these days, they throw in a burning barrel as a reminder.
• A lot of the pubs will be closed to all but long-term regulars: bring a hip flask of firewater to help combat the nippy night air.
Need To Know
Children
Smaller children may well find the Lewes experience a bit overwhelming. You are strongly advised not to bring under-11s, especially those in pushchairs, who are at greater risk from stray fireworks.
Parking
The centre of Lewes is closed to traffic from 17h onwards (sometimes earlier). This signals the start of a total parking free-for-all on the roads into town. You’ll have to be early, lucky or blocking someone’s driveway if you want to save yourself a walk of about 10 minutes.
Disability Access
Moving around the crowded narrow streets littered with discarded still-burning torches is difficult for everyone attending. You won’t miss anything if you stay in one place; the area around the Harveys brewery is best, and handy for the more accessible Waterloo fire site. The High Street above St Anne’s Church is a less crowded part of the procession route.
Food & Drink
Although many of the pubs on the procession route are very crowded, closed or only open to invited guests, there are still plenty to choose from. The Harveys brewery down by the River Ouse is the location of a very popular hog roast.
Sleep
Your best bet is Brighton, eight miles away: try the stylish Square Hotel or Drakes on the seafront in trendy Kemptown; decadent Blanch House on Atlingworth Street; or foodie magnet Hotel du Vin Brighton. For full details and more regional hotel listings, or to make a booking, go to www.mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701.
VIP
Not applicable at this event.
More Details
www.lewesbonfirecouncil.org.uk. Rocket FM Lewes broadcasts during the event on 87.8FM.