Las Fallas

Las Fallas

Among Europe’s biggest street parties, Las Fallas is a pyromaniac’s paradise during which Valencia becomes a whirl of flaming effigies, fireworks and torchlit parades. In the Middle Ages, local carpenters celebrated the spring equinox by setting fire to their off cuts and partying as the flames rose. Today, the city streets come alive with processions, music, paella – and lots of fire and noise. The fallas themselves are mobile monuments that feature whopping, gaudy, often satirical papier-mâché or polystyrene figures, some as high as four-storey buildings, and take months of painstaking craft (and not a little cash) to make. After a week of frenzied build-up, there’s a great parade along the Paseo Alameda; then the fallas are burnt and a huge fireworks display erupts above the city.

Highlights

The last night, aka la cremà (the burning), is spectacular: the whole city seems ablaze, and the sight of hundreds of absurd 15-metre-high puppets in flames is not one you’ll forget. Daily sessions of ear-splitting firecracker thrills, la mascletà, take place at 14h in each neighbourhood.

In The Know

Head Count

About two milliion people take part each year, with more than 70 per cent coming from out of town.

Meeting Point

The main entrance of the train station is the logical place to meet. It’s central but removed from the firestarting festivities. Otherwise, we suggest the north side of Plaza de la Reina, just south of the cathedral.

Best View

Spectators gather on the Plaza del Ayuntamiento for the municipal mascletà, so it’s an ideal position to soak up the atmosphere. For a view of the processions converging at the cathedral, find a spot on the north of Plaza de la Reina.

Packing Tips

The partying doesn't stop, so if you want to get any sleep you'll need earplugs and a sleep mask.

Escape

Head to the City of Arts and Sciences (www.cac.es) – the cinema, opera house, gardens, museum and oceanographic park just outside Valencia. It’s a cool, calm place designed by superstar architect and Valencian native Santiago Calatrava.

Dos and don'ts

• Visit la Virgen de los Desamparados, on Plaza de la Virgen. Valencian womenfolk parade through the city to lay flowers on this huge statue, which is covered by the end of the week.
• Go dancing. Valencia is a party city, where nightclubs get started about 01h and get into full swing at around 04h. Head to the Barrio del Carmen and see which bars look fun that night (San Jaume on Plaza del Tossal is a good bet). Restaurants open late, too – few get busy before 23h.
• Stay in a hotel just outside the city if you value your sleep; the banger abuse goes on all night.
• Visit the Mercado Central, the covered art nouveau market with some 1,000 stalls.

Need To Know

Children

Older kids love Las Fallas but, as the night wears on, the deafening fireworks and melting caricatures might inspire tears in little ones. The crowd is completely friendly rather than jostling.

Parking

Cars are banned from the city centre for the duration, but there is parking available outside town.

Disability Access

Events take place on Valencia's mainly flat streets, so access isn't usually a problem.

Food & Drink

Much of the provision available can be considered fairground fodder, but there are a couple of local beverage specialities that must be sampled. The first is the potent cocktail agua de Valencia (usually a mixture of sparkling wine, vodka and oranges) and the other is horchata (a sweet, milky-looking drink made from tiger nuts; sample some at the Horchatería de Santa Catalina on Plaza Santa Catalina). For dinner, try Los Patos on Calle del Mar (+34 963 921 522), which does a bargain fixed daily menu for under €15. La Pepica on Paseo Neptuno (+34 963 710 366) also serves hearty food. Valencia is the home of paella, but be careful where you order it, since tourist traps serve a gluey fresh-from-the-freezer version that’s memorable for all the wrong reasons. During Las Fallas, many streets host paella contests, at which the men folk compete to see who can make the most delectable dish on the open fires. Bring your own fork – everyone’s welcome. For dessert, try the gorgeous, gorgeous chocolate con churros: warm, sugared doughnuts dipped in chocolate.

Sleep

Those in favour of braving the all-night parties should reserve a room at Palau de la Mar (+34 963 162 884; www.hospes.es), a minimalist masterpiece within walking distance of all the sights. Alternatively, check into the Mas de Canicattí (+34 961 650 534; www.masdecanicatti.com), nestled in a 130-acre orange grove a 20-minute drive from town. Wherever you decide to stay, make your reservations well in advance, since every available bed in the city gets booked up months ahead of the event.

VIP

Not applicable for this event.