Jokkmokk Winter Market

Holding an open-air winter market in the middle of the Arctic wilderness, where the mercury regularly plummets below -20˚C, may sound unhinged, but the Jokkmokk Winter Market has been going strong for a good 400 years. It’s not just the reindeer races, dogsled excursions and moose safaris, or even the temptations of reindeer sausages and cloudberry schnapps that sees up to 80,000 people braving the icy wastes. The week-long event is also a grand gathering of the indigenous Sami people and a celebration of their culture, with folk concerts, dances, films, events and storytelling. The Jojk, traditionally sung by the Sami to express memories, calm the reindeer and keep wolves away, are not to be missed.

Highlights

There are different events every day in the surrounding forests, and cosy evenings of music, dance and theatre. The taxidermy championships might not be everyone’s cup of tea but, between Thursday and Saturday, there are parades of reindeer sleighs, passing by the Gamla Apoteket at midday. The main event is the reindeer races on Jokkmokk’s frozen Talvatis Lake, and the whole festival ends with a fireworks display at around 17h on the Saturday.

In The Know

Head Count

About 80,000 come for the week's events.

Meeting Point

The best place is the Tourist Bureau and Market Office, which are at 4, Stortorget, in the middle of the market area.

Best View

Frozen Talvatis Lake is where you’ll find the beautiful snow arena that forms the hub of festivities; as well as being the site of various events, this is the location of the reindeer races. Arrive early to nab the best position from which to watch the 14h races on Friday and Saturday.

Packing Tips

Warm clothes – lots and lots of very warm clothes. Temperatures of -20˚C are common, and -30˚C is not unusual. Having said that, it’s important to leave some space in your luggage for shopping at the market. As well as Skidoos, spring-loaded fish hooks and an awful lot of fur, the market sells pewter-thread and reindeer-leather jewellery, basketry and other Sami handicrafts, made from natural materials such as birch bark or antler horn.

Escape

Getting away from it all is pretty straightforward in northern Sweden. Beyond the town lies the pristine wilderness of Laponia. The best way to explore the surrounding area is by skidoo or dogsled with a guide; there are even moose safaris as part of the festivities. Take a guided sled trip out into the forest after dark and, if you’re lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights flickering above.

Dos and don'ts

• Try the reindeer stew – it’s delicious.
• Don’t underestimate the cold. If you haven’t been in these sorts of temperatures before, pack as many warm layers as you think you could possibly need, then pack some more.
• Bring plenty of cash as this isn't a Visa kind of place. There’s only one cash machine in Jokkmokk, and the banks get very busy.
• Don’t ask a Sami how many reindeer he has, it’s considered rude.
• Be prepared to see an awful lot of dead critters on sale in the market.

Need To Know

Children

Several of the child-specific events, such as storytelling, are Swedish-language only. However, kids will love the torchlight procession, colourful market, dancing games, and spectacles like the dogsled and reindeer races. Or wrap them up and send them on a wilderness safari.

Parking

There is parking available in the industrial area in the northern part of the town, which is within walking distance of the market. Heading to the market by car is not advised, since it requires a long drive in on snow-bound roads that are regularly blocked by herds of reindeer.

Disability Access

Public buildings have wheelchair access and most of the market is outdoors. Snow and ice could be problematic for some.

Food & Drink

The antlered beasts take centre stage here, too. Reindeer steaks, reindeer sausages, reindeer stew (renkok) and reindeer burgers are all widely available. Arctic char, salmon and trout from the local rivers are delicious, as well – you might even try your hand at some ice-fishing. Dishes are often flavoured with cloudberries, lingonberries and bilberries, which are also employed in schnapps.

Sleep

Accommodation is very scarce in this area, so you should book as early as possible. Hotel Jokkmokk on Solgatan (+46 (0)971 777 00; www.hoteljokkmokk.se) or Hotell Gästis on Herrevägen (+46 (0)971 100 12; www. hotell-gastis.com) are your best bet, although the tourist board can suggest alternatives. If the hotels are full, travel agent SN Resor (+46 (0)971 582 22; www.snr.se) can organise the rental of private rooms during the market. You may want to combine your visit with a stay at the magical Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi (www.icehotel.com), about 150 miles north of Jokkmokk.

VIP

There are concerts in the evenings during the market, featuring musicians, folk singers and balladeers. These are not only showcases of Sami culture, which is currently enjoying a renaissance, but often feature representatives of indigenous cultures from as far afield as Greenland and Canada. The concerts can be heavily oversubscribed but SN Resor can arrange tickets in advance.