Il Palio di Siena

Twice every summer, Siena’s vast marble Piazza del Campo becomes a dangerously competitive racetrack, as professional jockeys fly bareback across its treacherous cobbles. Il Palio, the most thrilling horse race in the world, brings spectators as close to a gladiatorial arena as it’s possible to get in modern Italy. Its origins are lost centuries back, but it is still essentially an expression of rivalry between the city’s ancient boroughs, or contrade, and the competition is fierce. The race is exhilarating – and risky. A horse can win without its jockey, accidents and injuries are common, deaths not unheard of. The three chaotic laps around the square are over in a flash, but the race is preceded by a mediaeval pageant and enriched by rumours of espionage and bribery. When it’s all over, winners and losers alike take to the streets to drink grappa all night and forget their enmity for another year.

Highlights

The full-regalia mediaeval processions on the day of the race are a sight not to be missed. Later on, when it seems the crowd might be consumed by sheer excitement, sword-wielding horsemen complete a circuit of the steeply canted track then, around 19h, an explosive charge is let off, and it’s all eyes on the starting line…

In The Know

Head Count

The city's population of some 50,000 is thought to double during the races.

Meeting Point

In front of the grand Fonte Gaia fountain in the centre of the Piazza del Campo.

Best View

A seat in the stands near the start or finish line is best, but to get an overview of the entire event, make arrangements to get into one of the balconies above.

Packing Tips

Take a big hat or a parasol to ward off that summer sun in style.

Escape

If you fancy a gallop yourself, extend your visit to include a riding holiday; the Berardenga Riding School in Chianti provides tuition for all levels (www.chiantiriding.it).

Dos and don'ts

• Be sensitive. Steer clear of contrada members at times of stress, ie: just before or after the race, and remember that this is a religious event, as well as a civic one.
• Be sure to try panforte, the dense, dark, spiced cake that has been a favourite in Siena since mediaeval times.
• Arrive a few days in advance and get into the atmosphere as the tension builds. You might also catch a rehearsal race.
• If it’s raining on the big day, look out for a green flag on the front of the Palazzo Pubblico: this indicates that the race will be run on the following day, weather permitting.
• Don’t attend with a full bladder. There are no loos inside the piazza, and if you choose to watch the event from the standing area, you’ll be blocked in there until all the festivities are over at around 20h. There are facilities in the ticketed areas.

Need To Know

Children

Older children will be enthralled, but don't let anyone stand too close to the race itself.

Parking

There are a number of free car parks just outside the old town walls, but they fill up fast during Il Palio. Try for a free place on Piazzale Rosselli, Viale Sclavo or Bottega Nova. Access to the centre is prohibited to out-of-town traffic.

Disability Access

Siena's layout is medieval, with few concessions made to those with limited mobility.

Food & Drink

For a romantic dinner, try Al Marsili on the Via del Castoro (+39 0577 47154; www.ristorantealmarsili.it), or the cosier Antica Osteria da Divo on Via Franciosa (+39 0577 284381). Osteria Le Logge is popular with the local crowd (+39 0577 48013). For day trips and supplies for the race, you’ll find some of Tuscany’s longest-established food stores in Siena: Morbidi on Via Banchi di Sopra, and Manganelli on Via di Citta. The Palio is all about communing with locals: the night before the big race, thousands gather in the streets around extended tables, some of them 50 foot long, and neighbourhood restaurants serve up feasts of Tuscan food, with great heaped platters of pasta and jugs of chianti.

Sleep

Villa Scacciapensieri is a picturesque 19th-century villa surrounded by its own parkland, located a few kilometres out of town (+39 0577 41441; www.villascacciapensieri.it). Hotel Certosa di Maggiano, also a short drive out of Siena, is a wonderful converted 14th-century monastery with rooms from €300 (+39 0577 288180; www.certosadimaggiano.com).

VIP

Tickets for positions at the start line can cost as much as €800. Liaisons Abroad (0870 421 4020; www.liaisonsabroad.com) can sort out tickets to the race for those wanting to watch the Palio in style.

More Details

www.terresiena.it; www.ilpalio.org

Il Palio di Siena Map