Henley Royal Regatta

What began as a village rowing race back in 1839 has grown into one of the top social Fixtures of the English ‘season’. Rowing is the alleged focus of Henley Regatta, with five days of racing to enjoy in a picturesque setting, but really it is all about proper, old-fashioned summer socialising: afternoon tea, picnics, champagne-swilling… As with any society event, it’s vital to know your place; there’s a strict and highly confusing pecking order, with the riverbank split up into enclosures, each with its own grandstand, marquee and bar. Top ranking is the Stewards’ Enclosure, where you can expect to see members, royals and the odd celeb-in-a-hat. Admission is quite limited, and deep pockets and the right connections are a definite help. Head to the Regatta Enclosure, which is open to the public and has a more relaxed ambience, with bands striking up, Pimm’s by the glass and good views of the action – ticket prices are very reasonable. Rowing clubs such as Remenham Club and Leander Club also have tents, though they occasionally feel like Oxford, Cambridge and Eton reunions.

Highlights

Saturday is the busiest day by far, when the most hotly anticipated races take place, but Sunday’s are equally worth attending, if only for the chance of a better view. Thursday is considered the best rowing day, with the Regatta Ball the social highlight.

In The Know

Head Count

About 300,000 visitors over the five days.

Meeting Point

In the Stewards' enclosure, the bandstand is the best place. In the Regatta enclosure, arrange to meet at the bar.

Best View

Anywhere along the river is good, and easily accessible for able-bodied viewers. If you’re lucky, you may even snag one of the deckchairs (free to those inside the enclosures) strategically placed along the banks.

Packing Tips

Got a striped blazer in the back of your wardrobe? Break it out. Same goes for Ascot ties and monogrammed cufflinks. Girls – think Philip Treacy, Stephen Jones, Cozmo Jenks.

Escape

Why not rent your own boat and explore the countryside? Try Hobbs of Henley boat hire (01491 572035). It’s possible to moor your boat off Fawley Meadows, where many people watch the race.

Dos and don'ts

• Do observe sartorial conventions. Henley has strict dress codes, though certain areas are more relaxed. Ties and blazers are essential for men. Women are encouraged to wear dresses. No trousers. No shorts. No miniskirts. Really.
• Find a Full Metal Jacket (FMJ). This is the colloquial term for members of the Stewards’ Enclosure, Remenham Club and Leander Club, who have unparalleled access to all areas of the Regatta. Basically, your new best friends. Buy them a Pimm’s or three.
• Avoid bringing your own alcohol unless you plan to drink it in the car park; enclosures strictly forbid the consumption of brought-in alcohol.
• Don’t wait to book your hotel: the best ones fill up early.

Need To Know

Children

While the Stewards’ Enclosure insists that admission is only for those aged 10 and over, the Regatta tent is a little more accommodating, and younger children are allowed with adult supervision.

Parking

Badge Packs from the organisers also include parking passes. See the website for details, at www.hrr.co.uk. The lots around Wargrave Meadows are the best bet for last-minute arrivals.

Disability Access

Fairly good, but contact organisers and they can help with any specific requests.

Food & Drink

The traditional thing is to set up a posh picnic by the side of your expensive car, but there are plenty of alternatives. The Barn Bar does light snacks, while the Start Bar does strawberries and cream. In the evening, try the Crooked Billet (01491 681048; www.thecrookedbillet.co.uk), which used to be a hang-out for highwayman Dick Turpin. Both the hotels mentioned below do great food, too.

Sleep

Foodies favour Hotel du Vin, which occupies a converted brewery right by the river in Henley. The Miller of Mansfield, a cosy Grade II-listed inn, is a short drive away in pretty Goring-on-Thames. For details and to book, go to www. mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701. At Cliveden House in Taplow, staff can arrange a vintage launch to take you to the Regatta (01628 668561; www.clivedenhouse.co.uk).

VIP

Keith Prowse offers a number of VIP packages from £235 plus VAT a day (0845 602 8962; www.keithprowse.co.uk). Bath Abbott rents riverside chalets for up to 30 guests, from £199 a person (020 8305 1800; www.bathabbott.com).