Focara di Novoli

Down on the heel of Italy’s boot, the ecclesiastical calendar provides a blazing pick-me-up during the dark winter months. Novoli’s festival of fire pitches Christian and pagan sensibilities onto the same pyre, to mark the end of the agricultural year and honour its patron saint, famed for his trip to hell to steal fire for humanity. San Antonio’s Promethean tendencies are undeniable, and downright un-Catholic, but the Pugliese won’t let that get in the way of a good party. Each year, more than 50,000 spectators gather round a 25-metre bonfire, constructed with thousands of bundles of ritualistically dried vine branches; fireworks on its crown and vast girth light up the night, before music, dancing and feasting take over the bars and restaurants until the small hours. Novoli’s usually quiet streets are illuminated, and lined with food stalls selling local delicacies. As the embers die down and crowds make their way home, each among them collects a smouldering twig from the pyre, and a handful of ashes to sprinkle on their land.

Highlights

The party is scheduled to start at 20h but, this being southern Italy, the timetable is so relaxed that the slightest distraction can mean an hour’s delay. Whatever you do, make sure you don’t miss the lighting ceremony, when fireworks decorating the giant conical vine structure fizz a fountain of sparkles into the night sky: get yourself into Piazza Tito Schipa on time, and enjoy the buzz while you wait.

In The Know

Head Count

More than 50,000 locals, visitors and pilgrims converge from all over the Salento region.

Meeting Point

Join friends on Piazza Regina Margherita before falling in with the flow.

Best View

Get as near to the bonfire as you dare. The fireworks are startlingly close.

Packing Tips

Plan for a long night outdoors and put on scarves, hats and layers to protect against bitter January winds.

Escape

Head for Lecce, the ‘Florence of the South’, with golden baroque architecture and relaxed café culture, or to Alberobello to the north, to see its conical stone houses.

Dos and don'ts

Swot up on your saints: look out for attributes such as Saint Anthony’s small pig, representing his protection of animals. During the day, you can witness the blessing of the livestock, when farmers and locals arrive with horses, sheep, rabbits and so on, to guarantee health and fertility for their charges over the coming year.
• Put on your dancing shoes, since all good Pugliese festivals include the
pizzica, a fast and compelling folk dance with a rhythmic accompaniment of accordion, violin and tambourine.
• Don’t expect Italians to run riot; they are a reserved lot, even when enjoying the most pagan of rituals.

Need To Know

Children

It’s a family affair, and everyone’s welcome, from babes in arms to octogenarians. Like most Italian public events, it’s an opportunity for everyone to see and be seen.

Parking

The centre of town is reserved for pedestrians, and it’s difficult to find a space. Arrive early to leave your car on the perimeter of town and use your feet.

Disability Access

Since the blaze takes place alfresco, there are kerbs and crowds to contend with, but the festival is otherwise largely accessible.

Food & Drink

The Salento is the heartland of cucina povera – rustic cooking. Specialities include ciceri e tria, or pasta with chickpeas, and broad-bean puree served with bitter chicory. You can eat regional dishes in all of Novoli's family-run restaurants – a favourite is Mocorito in Piazza Regina Margherita (+39 0832 714100) – or join the locals and snack from the stands lining the centre's streets. You might eat pittule, a savoury doughnut with cauliflower or salt cod, pot-baked octopus, or Nutella-scraped crepes. Enjoy it all with a glass of the more-ish local red wine, called Salice Salentino. In the fishing village of Savelletri, La Marea is a simple place that's great for seafood, including oysters and sea urchins (+39 080 482 9415). There's fine Puglian dining in the historic centre of Ostuni, at Osteria del Tempo Perso on Via G Tanzarella Vitale (+39 0831 303320), and L’Osteria di Chichibio, in the pretty village of Polignano a Mare (+39 080 424 0488) does delicious grilled fish, seafood pasta and home-made lemon ice-cream.

Sleep

There are some great Smith hotels in this area: investigate the charm-packed Masseria Torre Coccaro, a 90-minute drive away in Savelletri di Fasano by the Adriatic, and the soothing La Sommità, about 70 minutes from Novoli in the little town of Ostuni. See www.mrandmrssmith.com for details and reservations, or ring 0845 034 0701.

VIP

Not applicable at this event, except for the high table dedicated to local luminaries.