
Two weeks after the religious reverence of Semana Santa, Seville launches into a massive, raucous street party, with dancing, horse-drawn processions, fireworks and oceans of sherry, as the city casts off its winter clothes and welcomes spring. The feria began as a cattle market in 1847 but within a couple of years, the livestock trade was eclipsed by partying and parades. By the 1920s, it was a roaring, globally renowned fiesta, infused with the spirit of Seville, and it remains so today. Celebrations centre on a makeshift town of casetas (tents put up for the feria, full of food, drink, music and people) and a fairground with carnival rides and games. The days are all about tradition – with daily bullfights, flamenco displays and parades – while the nights are for partying right through till dawn.
A million locals and visitors crowd the streets.
The brightly lit puerta or gate to the fairground is a good place to watch everyone go by as you wait.
Hop on a fairground ride to get a look at the party from above - or take a spin on Seville's gorgeous big wheel.
Seville can get very hot, even in the spring, so pack your sunscreen, sunglasses and a folding fan to flourish.
Visit the glorious Cathedral of Seville – the largest gothic building in the world – or head to the beautiful beaches at Los Caños de Meca, southwest of Vejer de la Frontera.
• Try tinto de verano, the refreshing mix of red wine with white, lemon or orange soda or, if you are feeling bolder, agua de Sevilla, a very powerful mix of pineapple juice, champagne, whisky and rum.
• Make friends with locals as it’s the best way to get into the private casetas, though don’t be too disappointed if this tactic doesn’t work. The casetas are run by companies, prominent families and private groups, so they rarely welcome outsiders – but there are public ones available, too, called casetas de distrito.
• Get a map of the feria. Each tent is numbered so it’s easy enough to find your way around.
• Don’t always head for the sunny side of the street. You’ll see most Sevillanos crossing the road to get to the shade. Follow them. The combination of too much sherry and the fierce Andalucían sun makes many visitors sick.
There are lots of families, with local and visiting children loving the rides, the colours and the excitement.
Car break-ins are so common that locals post Soy de Sevilla (I’m from Seville) signs to deter thieves, and we suggest you do the same. If you do rent a car, choose a small one, since it’ll be easier to find a parking spot for it. Better still, leave it at your hotel and take a bus or taxi to the action instead, then you can indulge in a few glasses of sherry.
Seville's cobbled streets aren't great for wheelchairs, but most of the feria itself is negotiable.
At the casetas, look out for tents specifi cally selling food. Most will serve tapas and it’s tradition to eat fried fi sh on the fi rst night. Most of the festival’s restaurants and bars are located at the end of the Calle de Infi erno, but for excellent Spanish cuisine, head into town. Try Casa Robles on Calle Alvarez Quintero (+34 954 213 150), a family-run restaurant with an extensive wine list, or the more exclusive La Albahaca on Plaza de Santa Cruz (+34
954 220 714), which has alfresco dining and a set menu for 27. As a bedtime snack, nothing beats churros y chocolate, preferably from the famous Chocolatería Virgen de Luján on Avenida de Andalucía (+34 954 573 139).
Hacienda de San Rafael is a beautifully restored Andalucían fi nca, about 20 minutes from Seville. Visit www.mrandmrssmith.com for more information and our online booking service, or ring 0845 034 0701. For five-star Moorish luxury and excellent food, stay at the Hacienda Benazuza in Sanlúcar la Mayor, a 15 minute drive west of Seville (+34955 703 344; www.elbullihotel.com). Another good option is the wonderful 16th-century palace Casa de Carmona, half an hour away (+34 954 191 000; www.casadecarmona.com).
Not applicable at this event.
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