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For almost all of August, Edinburgh is home to the world’s largest arts festival, a combination of quirky theatre, side-splitting stand-up, musicals and music, and a chance to spot the stars of the future. Where else in the world can you hear a brilliant poet read her own work and then pop into a bar next door and enjoy a pint while someone nails their testicles to a table? Such is the unpredictable magic of this festival. Watch Jerry Sadowitz jump off stage and start fighting with the audience, or catch Steven Berkoff making an unannounced appearance in a Shakespeare production. While performances and shows take place in theatres and venues around the city, street performers, jugglers and buskers merge with the crowds on every corner. Fringe it may be, but, for more than a million people, this is the highlight of the year.

Highlights

In The Know

Head Count

Around a million people during the month.

Meeting Point

The cafe at the Traverse Theatre (0131 228 5383; www.traverse.co.uk) is a lively, central spot.

Best View

While the front row will give you the best views, remember that comedians love to pick on those closest...

Packing Tips

Anything goes, so if you have an outlandish outfit that needs an airing, this is the place for it. Otherwise, take sensible shoes (for the cobbles) and a map to help you keep track of the 250-plus venues.

Escape

Head up to St. Andrew's, about an hour's drive away, for a blustery walk around the old sea wall.

Dos and don'ts

• Read The Scotsman – this has the best coverage and reviews and is an indispensable guide to a Fringe Festival stay.
• Visit the Half-Price Hut on Princes Mall. This open-all-day box office sells half-price tickets for a selection of performances on the day.
• Buy a ticket for something or someone you’ve never heard of. Many of the real gems come from complete unknowns, and it’s worth taking the risk.
• Climb the Scott Monument. This gothic memorial to the great Ivanhoe author has 287 narrow winding steps, but it’s worth every one when you see the glorious view from the top.

Need To Know

Children

Kids love the colour and vibrancy of the festival and there are plenty of shows specially for them. Venues such as the Pleasance (0131 556 6550; www.pleasance.co.uk/edinburgh) run programmes for juniors that include acrobatics, drama, magic and the chance to participate.

Parking

Temporary traffic regulations are in place so avoid driving into the city, particularly round the Royal Mile. Most locations are within walking distance of each other.

Disability Access

Cobbles, hills and crowds don’t make it easy, though some of the larger venues, such the Assembly Rooms (0131 623 3030; www.assemblyrooms.com) in the New Town area have excellent access.

Food & Drink

Many of the venues are in bars and cafés, or in theatres that have their own restaurants attached, so you won’t go hungry, and there are stalls dotted around selling the usual street food, too. However, for restaurant dining, we loved the elegant but ethical food at Iglu (0131 476 5333; www.theiglu.com) and the more salubrious surrounds of the Witchery (0131 225 5613; www.thewitchery.com), both of which are well-placed for the action. If you just want to escape the masses, sign up for out-of-town membership at Home House members’ club (0131 523 1523; edinburgh.homehouseclub.com), where there’s a Michelin-starred chef and a lovely sun terrace.

Sleep

Avoid the mayhem around the Royal Mile at Rick’s, a sleek, calm bar with rooms on Frederick Street. More central is Tigerlily, a glamorous den with an inviting bar, or the endearingly eccentric and grand Ardmor House. For details of these and other hotels in Edinburgh, and to make a booking, go to www.mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701.

VIP

Hospitality is usually organised by individual venues. The Berlin Bierhous and the Assembly Rooms have VIP areas, and a number of agents organize hospitality packages – try Keith Prowse at www.keithprowse.co.uk.

More Details

www.edfringe.com