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Easter Feria
Arles, France 21–24 March
When roars of approval thunder around the bullring at Arles, it’s not always the matador being cheered on. The people of the Camargue couldn’t be prouder of their bulls: wild ones, descended from Roman stock, roam the region’s salt marshes; the families who breed them for the corrida are Arlesian royalty; and the great annual celebration of tauromachy (bullfighting) attracts toreadors from across the globe. Until the fifth century, gladiators and hunters stalked the vast arena, which seats 20,000 spectators. Away from the bullring, Arles is a quintessential southern French town, with its café-lined Place du Forum, immortalised by Van Gogh, and a mile-long weekend market.
Highlights
The moment when the bull runs in, snorting and spoiling for a fight, is a thrilling one. When a celebrity matador makes his or her entrance, the crowd goes wild, though the acrobatic antics of the picadors are no less captivating than the grace and steel of the showmen.
In The Know
Head Count
500,000 attend over the weekend.
Meeting Point
Meet at the rather dashing statue of Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral in the Place du Forum.
Best View
The Tribune sections of the arena are the best and also the priciest. They sell out, so if you're keen, book early.
Packing Tips
The weather in this area of France can be surprisingly balmy in spring, with Easter temperatures hitting sweltering heights, so pack sandals, a hat, sun cream… There are no sartorial requirements for the festival, but locals tend to dress smart, especially in the evening.
Escape
For a balance to the drama of the bullfighting, head to the Parc Ornithologique at the Pont de Gau to see hundreds of flamingos in their natural habitat.
Dos and don'ts
• Visit the Museum of Antiquities – Le Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques – at the edge of town near the A54 towards Nîmes. It covers fi ve centuries of Roman rule, with a fascinating selection of artefacts and art.
• Don’t sleep late on Saturday, or you risk missing the market, a bustling spectacle with goslings, chickens, fig trees, vast vats of olives, fresh flowers and lots of food.
• Explore the Van Gogh trail. The year before his death, Vincent lived and worked in Arles, painting more than 200 canvases in 15 months. The city and surrounding area are signposted with yellow plaques and reproductions of his work.
• Have cocktails in the many bars and cafés around the Place du Forum. Absinthe, anyone?
• Don’t visit the Cryptoporticus unless you are utterly resistant to claustrophobia. The underground tunnels, dating back to the first century BC, may have been used to hold slaves.
Need To Know
Children
Children are welcome, and pay a reduced entry price.
Parking
Parking isn't easy in this ancient city, but there are spots to be found. It's small enough for most to manage without a motor.
Disability Access
The cobbled streets are hard-going for those with sight or mobility impairments, and the Roman arena is all about stairs, with no wheelchair access.
Food & Drink
Lou Marquès (+33 (0)4 90 52 52 52) is our pick for a romantic night out. If the night is warm enough, ask for a table on the terrace, and perhaps try the taurea, or bull steak. A local lunch favourite is Le Calendal (+33 (0)4 90 96 11 89), which serves a buffet of salads and hot dishes, or head to the banks of the Rhône and have dinner on an old cruiser at La Péniche (+33 (0)4 90 93 31 10).
Sleep
L’Hôtel Particulier, with its splendid courtyard and eight charming rooms, is down a cobbled side street close to the action. Jardins Secrets is an ornate hideaway in nearby Nîmes; and Oustau de Baumanière is a chic country pile about 45 minutes away in Les Baux. For details of these hotels, and to book, visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or ring 0845 034 0701.
VIP
Not applicable at this event.
More Details
www.arenes-arles.com; www.arlestourisme.com
