Art Basel

Art Basel

Straddling the River Rhine, Basel is best known for its industrial heritage and its university (where Nietzsche taught and Jung studied – sadly not at the same time), and for its perch on the border between Switzerland, France and Germany. For five days a year, though, it becomes a world power, in art terms at least. The biggest fair of its kind, Art Basel is an absolute must for anyone involved in the art industry, and an inspiring opportunity for amateur collectors and curious onlookers. The main venue, complemented by other events and exhibits around town, showcases painting, sculpture, drawings, installations, video and digital art from both superstellar names (Bacon, Hirst, Koons) and most-likely-to upstarts. Dealers, curators and millionaires talk shop, and what a shop it is: covering 30,000 square metres, Art Basel’s exhibition halls contain works by more than 3,000 artists. Come to buy, browse or soak up the atmosphere of fame and fortune that pervades every corner of the city.

Highlights

Art Unlimited, which takes up half of Hall 1, is for projects too big for the normal booths, and features plenty of wonders to behold. Look out for the big-hitting galleries such as Gagosian (representing work by Andy Warhol and Jeff Koons) if you want to see the famous names. Those with shallower pockets should head straight for the exhibits from lesser-known galleries.

In The Know

Head Count

More than 50,000 art lovers over five days.

Meeting Point

The entrance of Messe Basel’s Hall 2 is a relatively quiet, central spot where you can wait for friends.

Best View

The exhibition centre's Hall 2 is built around an internal courtyard; the second-floor balcony provides a bird's-eye view of the crowd and the dealers deep in discussion about their latest discoveries and disasters.

What If

I’m not a super-rich art collector? Don’t panic, you’ll probably enjoy it all the more. The sheer volume of exhibitors (more than 250 galleries) can feel overwhelming, so consider taking a guided tour; they can be booked through ‘culture consultants’ GCC (www.culture-consulting.ch). Once you’ve had the tour, you might feel you know enough to think about investing in an art bargain of your own.

Packing Tips

You can dress up in anything you feel like here – the art world welcomes outfits both strange and sophisticated. Pack a few layers too, since it can get chilly, even in midsummer. And a credit card might be handy.

Escape

Basel is the gateway to the beautiful Jura mountains and nearby cities of Zurich and Lucerne, as well as Alsace and the Black Forest. If these attractions sound too far/not arty enough for you, hop on a bus from Claraplatz to the outstanding Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein for an eyeful of Frank Gehry architecture and Eames furniture (www.design-museum.de).

Dos and don'ts

• Don’t carry a big bag – you’ll only have to leave it in the cloakroom before you go into the hall. Besides, you’ll need your muscles for carting around the tome-like catalogue.
• Do try and win brownie points with the locals by speaking German. Most Swiss German speakers will appreciate your efforts and only a few older locals still speak Baseldytsch, a Low Alemannic dialect similar to Alsatian. If you can speak that, you'll really impress them.
• When you arrive at the airport, make sure you exit through Swiss passport control, or you will unwittingly find yourself in France.
• Embrace the arty scene and check out the alternatives. Other shows, such as Liste and Volta (www.liste.ch; www.voltashow.com) have sprung up in recent years to feed the crowd’s insatiable desire for art.

Need To Know

Children

Drop them at Art Kids, an excellent free service for children aged three to 13 on the second floor of Hall 2. They’ll be entertained with crafts, games and artistic activities, and kept fed and watered.

Parking

Road-using trams and a confusing traffic system mean driving can be a headache for visitors. If you do arrive on wheels, though, there are two carparks for the exhibition centre – Parkhaus Messe and Badischer Bahnhof.

Disability Access

The exhibition halls are well designed, but the old town isn’t brilliant for wheelchairs, with steep and bumpy cobblestone alleys.

Food & Drink

Bar Rouge (+41 (0)61 361 3031; www.barrouge.ch) is a sleek retro place at the top of the Messeturm tower that wouldn’t look out of place in a Bond movie. The views are great, and it’s handy for a post-art tipple as it’s right near the exhibition centre. For stylish Italian food in a rustic but smart setting, try Acqua (+41 (0)61 271 6300; www.acquabasilea.ch).

Sleep

The Swissôtel Le Plaza (+41 (0)61 555 3333; www.basel.swissotel.com) is the best option in town.

VIP

The VIP preview begins with an invite-only do on the Tuesday, beginning at 11h on the dot. In the main, VIP status is reserved for collectors, museum directors and journalists.