Boutique hotels
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Herdade da Malhadinha Nova
- Style
- Wine and wicker
- Setting
- Bucolic Beja
Alentejo Overview
Portugal
- Countryside
- Cork, pork and castles
- Country life
- Agriculturally abundant
Known for its cork trees and rolling plains, the stunning region of Alentejo offers visitors a genuine sense of Portuguese rural life.
Accessed via the super-speedy A6 motorway from Lisbon, Alentejo’s parched, Out of Africa-style landscape –dotted with mediaeval castles and forts built to repel any potential Spanish invasion – is one of the most tranquil spaces in western Europe. Pata Negra pigs graze lazily on acorns in the fields, building up their body weight for an inevitable appearance on one of the region’s gourmet, pork-focused menus, while, at night, shooting stars splash through the clear, unpolluted sky. There’s not a stressed-out urbanite in the world that wouldn’t love to be exiled to this part of Iberia.
Absolutely Alentejo
Portugal is the world’s second-largest producer of marble after Italy, and most of it is to be found in the area surrounding the beautiful town of Estremoz. Indeed, Estremoz Pink is one of the most sought-after varieties, and can be seen in doorsteps, pavements and sculptures all over the district.
Local Knowledge
- Taxis
- You’re far better off hiring your own car, but if you do want to indulge yourself on a wine tour or go out and have a drink with your evening meal, then either ask your hotel to book you a cab or try Rumara Taxis (+351 268 919482).
- Tipping culture
- A charge isn’t usually included on restaurant bills, so add 10 per cent for good service – taxi drivers should receive the same.
- Siesta and fiesta
- In the hot summer months you’ll find the traditional post-lunch/pre-dinner siesta de rigeur, so don’t expect anything to be open between 2pm and 5pm. Late dinners, from around 9pm onwards, are standard.
- Packing tips
- Bring riding gear if you’re an avid horseman or woman – the expansive Alentejo plains are crying out for some serious galloping.
- Recommended reads
- Alentejo Blue by Brick Lane author Monica Ali is an ensemble novel set in the region, and entwines stories of rural Portuguese life with the writer’s usual wit and style.
- Cuisine
- Locally farmed pigs form the basis of many dishes in the region. Carne de Porco à Alentejana (pork with clams and coriander) and migas (chorizo fried with breadcrumbs) are both popular staples of the Alentejo table. Olives, cheese and wine are also regional specialities.
- Currency
- Euro (€).
- Time zone
- GMT +1 hour.
- Dialling codes
- Country code for Portugal: 351; for Estremoz: 268.
- Do go/don't go
- You get really good weather from April to October – July and August are not crowded (because everyone has headed for the sea), but might be too hot for some people. Spring tends to be sunny and warm, and winters are generally mild.
Don't go home without...
Picking up one of the bonecos – brightly coloured clay figurines that are typical of the region – from Bonecos de Estremoz on rua do Arco de Santarem in Estremoz.
