Mr & Mrs Smith

If you'd rather not stray far from bed, the hotel offers Balinese dancing, cooking, kite- or offering-making classes, private yoga sessions and plenty of spa pampering. Futher afield, head out on a village tour, rice-paddy trek, rustic cycle ride, elephant safari or go river rafting. For a culture hit, drive into local town Ubud, where you'll find respected art galleries, chic boutiques, temples and a crafts market, as well as a monkey forest full of pesky but entertaining simians. Viceroy Bali can also organise trips, including helitours, to top sights across Bali.

Head to rated Ubud restaurant Mosaic (+62 361 975 768; www.mozaic-bali.com). Considered one of Asia's best, it's set in a lush tropical garden on Jalan Raya Sanggingan. Under the helm of chef Chris Salans, it serves up delicious dishes marrying French skills with Balinese ingredients and flavours, including Indonesian and contemporary global offerings.

For a casual drink with a very local feel make for Naughty Nuri's Warung and Grill, off Jalan Raya Sanggingan, a simple roadside shack-come-eatery that's a hit with expats for a casual beer or charcoal-grilled pork ribs. Don't expect frills.

March–April Boost your chakras at Ubud's Bali Spirit Festival (www.balispiritfestival.com), a five-day celebration involving yoga, music and dance. October Indulge your literary impulses at the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival (www.ubudwritersfestival.com), well known in Asia as a quality wordfest attracting global guest writers.