
Boutique hotels
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Moulin Renaudiots
- Style
- Danish-Dutch designer pad
- Setting
- Water-edged woodland
Burgundy Overview
France
- Countryside
- Abbey-crested winelands
- Country life
- Market shopping, domaine-hopping
Located in the heart of France, Burgundy is a region of peaceful canals, well-tended vineyards and rural charm – the epitome of la vie Française.
Burgundy has unexpected charms to uncork: vineyards, of course, but also tranquil canals and, at its heart, a lake-laden national park. Romanesque churches dot the hills and plains, among them the beautiful Cistercian abbey at Fontenay. And traces of Burgundy’s pre-Enlightenment incarnation as a powerful duchy remain, such as the imposing Ducal Palace in the centre of Dijon. Today, it’s the region’s food and wine that are all-conquering: its rich gastronomie bourguignonne and its precious Côte d’Or vintages. Burgundy’s towns and rivers – Chablis, Mâcon, Beaune, Pouilly, the Loire and the Saône – make up an oenophile’s gazetteer. You don’t have to be a wine lover to come on holiday here, but... actually, you do.
Beautifully Burgundy
Wine, cheese and truffles are all on the menu at Burgundy On A Plate, a British-run company operating guided day tours out of Beaune (+33 (0)3 80 39 09 88; www.burgundyonaplate.com). You can either join a group itinerary or arrange a tailored private tour. The Luxury Wine & Gastronomy tour visits prestigious vineyards in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, and invites you to sup on Grand Cru wines and take lunch in a gastronomic restaurant.
Local Knowledge
- Taxis
- In Dijon, there’s a taxi rank at the railway station. Otherwise, book one through Taxis Radio Dijon (+33 (0)3 80 41 41 12) or your hotel.
- Tipping culture
- A service charge is normally added to your bill (service compris) in restaurants and cafés but it’s still customary to leave a small tip. For taxi drivers, add 10 percent to the metered charge.
- Siesta and fiesta
- Shops increasingly stay open all day in the bigger cities, but many still take a lunch break, and shut their doors on Sundays. Banks are open Monday to Friday, some on Saturdays. Many restaurants close after 2pm and reopen in the afternoon around 4pm. It’s also common for restaurants to shut on Mondays or Tuesdays.
- Packing tips
- A corkscrew.
- Recommended reads
- Long Ago in France: The Years in Dijon by MFK Fisher celebrates the region’s cuisine. The Vintner’s Luck by Elizabeth Knox is a novel set in a small Burgundian village at the time of Napoleon.
- Cuisine
- Burgundy’s top restaurants use prized local ingredients, including Charolais beef and Grand Cru wines. Say Dijon, and you think mustard. Grey Poupon, the famous original, is now mass-produced by Kraft; it’s worth scouring Dijon’s delis for local blends. Celebrated dishes such as boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin are claimed by the region, and it’s an excellent place to order escargots. The Morvan area produces wonderful goat’s cheese.
- Currency
- Euro.
- Time zone
- GMT +1.
- Dialling codes
- Country code for France: 33. Dijon: 038.
- Do go/don't go
- ummers are hot and sunny; winters are cold and clear. Spring sees more rainfall but fewer crowds in the towns and cities. The oak and maple forests look spectacular in autumn, and the wine harvest takes place in September and October.
Don't go home without...
…a bottle of crème de cassis, the blackcurrant liqueur without which there would be no kir.